Can you make wireforms with a soldering iron? Yes!

 So many years ago (when my project was more active), I attempted to solder wireform ramps I was not very successful.  Between not having a very good jig, and I likely bought brass (which isn't as solderable), and probably didn't sand my surfaces, and probably didn't have a hot enough soldering station.. etc etc.

So on a whim since I have the day off, I grabbed some 12AWG solid copper wire (.080") from my basement that my dad gave me when he retired.  stripped off a couple feet, straightened it out the best I could, and made some smaller chunks to act as braces.

I did not use flux, I did not use a torch (though both of these would likely create a stronger joint).  However, it was way stronger than I would have guessed.  Also although copper is pretty flexible on it's own, as soon as you add those braces it becomes very rigid.  That's not to say I can't purposely push on it and kill the straightness but for prototyping it's just fine.  So of course I started my search for cheap copper rods (so I at least start with a nice straight piece).  Looked at Mcmaster, looked at welding rods (which would either be brass, or if it was copper it was only coated, or if it was solid copper it would have a flat stamp mark on it).  Finally remembered what my backup metal supplier was, surely they would have some and turns out they DO!

https://www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/copper/0-125-dia-copper-round-bar-110-h04/pid/1606

$2.18 for 1/8" diameter x 36" long (and you can get up to 12 foot lengths).  I threw 12 of those pieces in my cart, $14 shipping (little high, but the pieces are CHEAP).. looked around for a coupon, find a 15% off coupon (which now drops my total another $4).  So $36 for 12 pieces shipped to my door.  Even if you walked into a store that even carries it, I doubt you could find them that cheap.

So one thing I've always struggled with is the transition from playfield to the wireform.  I'm starting to play with 3d printed mounts where all you do is drill 4 holes, cut the tangent to each hold, and drop in a piece that fits like an insert.  I also want to build up a wall underneath the wireform to ensure a ball will never get trapped behind the wireform.