So one thing I wanted to eliminate was leaf switches, and for good reason:
1. They are expensive. $5 at a minimum, and they are essentially copper strips with carbon pads.
2. They wear out. Those tiny pads with sparks wearing them with every hit means you'll be replacing them
3. They can get damaged. How many old pinballs have you seen where the strip looks more warped than a noodle?
4. The contacts are exposed, so they also get dirty.
I thought about creating a mechanism to use a common cherry switch you see in joystick buttons, but then I found this:
In small bulk (I need at least 7 for my layout), they are only about $2 a piece. They come with nice long arms that extend almost a full 2 inches beyond the body, they handle up to 15 amps, and they are fully enclosed so they are far less likely to fail. I plan on buying some of these, then model them up so I can create a bracket to mount it. The bracket will have slots so that I can also adjust the position to tweak how much force it takes to set it off. Often you have slings where the leaf switches aren't straight, and the sling solenoid doesn't always fire.
One other problem I thought of today, the cabinet I have is late 70's, which means it's very boxy (doesn't have the angled cabinet). Because of this, and the fact that the back of my playfield has objects that are 4 inches higher than the apron, it's going to make the flippers 6" away from the glass. This also means I have to make custom lockdown hangers to drop the front of the playfield down into the cabinet. This isn't really the issue though, my issue is that this is if I make the playfield parallel with the cabinet, this means no playfield angle :-0
I believe I have a solution, pretty sure Sega/Stern legs have the same bolt pitch, so I can put Sega legs in the back, keep bally/williams in front (3" height difference). The other 3" can be made up with the leg levelers (down in front, extended in the rear). I can also buy longer levelers from Mcmaster if I need more height.